Sewing Tips and the Whys Behind Them

We’ve all seen the lists of sewing tips that are certainly handy to know, but have you ever wondered why? Are you like me and frequently reinvent the wheel so that you can understand all aspects of it? Then, and only then, do you truly get the why and wherefore of something.

embossed velvet

Ironing -

Velvet should never be ironed. - Actually, you can iron velvet. If you haven't got a needleboard to lay the velvet on, face down, use a clean white towel, or one that you're sure won't leave a dye residue on the velvet fibers. How this works is that the velvet pile sinks down into the towel fibers without crushing them. A handy tip for ironing seams is to place something narrow, such as a thicker dowel rod, beneath the towel and place the seam over that. This stops the seam allowances from causing ridges that can leave impressions on your fabric.

*This is one I can't quite explain the reasons why, exactly, not without a degree in chemistry.*
For stubborn wrinkles on natural fabrics such as linen, cotton, and rayon, white vinegar is your very best friend. In a small spray bottle (smaller is easier to handle), mix half vinegar and half water together. Be sure it's white vinegar, as cider vinegar will stain. Spray your stubborn wrinkles and iron on your normal setting. Always test any ironing, even with just water, on fabrics you aren't sure of the content on or if they've been pre-shrunk, as steaming wrinkles can potentially shrink the fabric. Also, you can simply spray hung fabric, such as curtains or uncut fabric, and leave the vinegar to dry. The wrinkles will relax out of the fabric. This is especially handy when removing wrinkles before cutting your fabric.

Cutting -

When cutting out large pattern pieces, hang them over something like the top of an open door, or a shower curtain rod for several hours or overnight before sewing. You may have to recut them when the fabric relaxes. Once you cut the piece out from the fabric yardage, it begins to stretch and relax, especially the parts cut on the bias. Skirts, extra long sleeves, cloaks, and etc all really need to be hung before sewing, especially before hemming.

If you're cutting out something super light, such as chiffon, be careful when smoothing your fabric out to pin the pattern pieces on it. If you smooth one spot, it pulls another. I find that holding the edges tight and simply blowing across the fabric can smooth out those pesky wrinkles without moving your fabric off grain. Also, turn off all wind sources, if you can! Even the slightest draft of air can disturb your fabric.

Sewing -

When sewing long seams, it's best to sew in the direction the item will be hanging. In other words, you sew down, the direction gravity will be pulling. The fabric inevitably relaxes, even after you've let the pieces hang. All seams really need to be sewn in the same direction, the initial sewing line, as well as serging lines. If you don't, the fabric can eventually start to sag along that seam. This is especially evident with knit fabrics, or pieces cut on the bias.

For a more professional garment, finish your seams, rather than just cutting with pinking shears. You can do this with many methods, such as french seams, serging, overlock stitch, whip stitching, flat felling, and simple zig zagging. Unfinished seams will eventually begin to fray and they aren't as strong as finished seams.

Many commercial patterns call for facings to have fusible interfacing. Even when lined, some call for only a strip just down the hem edge for buttonholes or simple stability. It never fails that this interfacing comes loose after laundering a handful of times. I find the best way to combat this is to sew the interfacing to the lining, or to the shell with discreet stitches. The same applies for the facings themselves. If you don't want a thread line to show, a few near invisble hand stitches can stop them from bunching up after laundering.

Remove pins as you sew! This is very important. You need to either hand crank the needle over the pins, or remove them as they pass under your feed dog. A needle can shatter if it hits the body of a pin, causing damage to your machine and possibly yourself. Trust me on this one. Been there, done that.

Fabrics -

Leather- You really can sew leather on your machine. Garment leather is classified at 2 oz or less, usually. This is how much it weighs per square foot. I wouldn't recommend sewing anything heavier on a home machine. For this purpose, leather needles exist. Instead of punching through the leather like regular needles do with fabric, sewing machine leather needles actually cut tiny holes as they go through the leather. Use heavier thread when sewing leather, too. I find that upholstery thread is best.

Sheers - Chiffon, organza, georgette. They sound pretty. They look pretty. They can be very difficult to sew. When sewing sheers, make sure your machine needle is as small as you can find, size 9 or 11. Otherwise, the larger needles will leave unsightly holes in your seam. New, sharp needles are preferable. Change the stitch length on your machine to a smaller setting, such as level 2, if you have that. Make sure you're sewing the correct sides together. Ripping seams out of sheers leaves traces behind, so fewer mistakes are important here. Go slowly until you build your confidence and watch out for thread bunching. It's remarkably easy for a misthreaded machine to suck your thin fabric through the needle plate. If your seams are going to show, french seams are much more appealing on a sheer garment than any other. Likewise, rolled or baby hems are more attractive. If your machine came with accessories, you likely have a rolled hem foot in with them. With a bit of experimenting, this foot can be remarkably easy to use and vital if you sew many sheer items.

Not all cottons are created equal. Thus, use the appropriate needle for your cotton. For something like batiste or voile, use the smaller needles. Denim always needs a heavier needle.

Silks can be difficult to sew, but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. It tends to be more delicate than other fabrics, but silk is also the strongest natural fiber out there. Chiffon, organza and georgettes made from silk can be ripped rather than cut, and it is much easier to make sure you have the true grain of the fabric when you do this. Be prepared to use many pins, though, once you start sewing. It's beautiful, but it can creep and crawl quite a bit. The exception is dupioni silk. My favorite of any silk fabrics, the only drawback with this gorgeous stuff is that it is very, very easy to get the wrong side of the fabric piece pinned and sewn in. Be doubly aware of your pattern shapes when you start working. I can't tell you how many times I've had to rip out a sleeve for putting it in backwards with dupioni. It looks the same on both sides.

Velvet- Sewing velvet can be... a challenge. Sewing velvet to satin can be a nightmare. A couple of shots of tequila midway through your project might be required, in fact! Take care when you cut, pin within your seam allowances to be sure the pile isn't crushed by your pins, and be ready to either use every pin in your pack, or hand baste it. The walking foot will be your very best friend when you sew velvet. If you must iron your seams, do so lightly, and carefully. See my tip on ironing velvet.

Patterns -

Not all patterns are created equal. I have a vague hope that one of these days, all commercial pattern makers will have a consistent sizing method. Simplicity size 8 is not the same as a Butterick size 8. Some are even larger or smaller than what the pattern back states. It's best to do a trial of a pattern you've never used before, just to be sure. Also, looking at the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces themselves help. This link will help you figure out the size and fit you want.

You want to recreate a garment you saw on last year's catwalk, or maybe the prom dress you wore ten years ago. The problem is, you can't find an exact pattern. Actually, maybe you can. The simplest tip I can give is to break patterns down into basic shapes. Even if this requires taking the pattern instructions out of the envelope and looking at them in the store, it's best to do this before you get the wrong pattern. If you're looking for a formal dress, don't restrict yourself. Combining patterns can be dead easy, once you get over the fear of it. Pattern A has the bodice style you need, but a horrible skirt. Pattern B has the perfect skirt, but the bodice and sleeves are wrong. You couldn't possibly use Pattern B because you found it in the costume section, rather than formalwear. Right? Wrong. A pattern is a pattern is a pattern. Admittedly, some costume patterns cheat and take the easy way out for fittings, like using elastic and no linings, but some are actually the opposite, namely historical recreations. Break down what you're looking at in the item you want to recreate and look for the patterns to fit those pieces. It doesn't all have to be on the same pattern, or in the same section.

Tools -

Even though they're more expensive, you'll do much better with glass headed pins. Cheap, plastic head pins can and will melt when ironed over.

Serger tweezers, or surgical tweezers, are invaluable in the sewing toolbox. There is always some small piece of thread or fabric they can be used on.

Seamrippers need to be replaced every so often, from several times a year for constant use to less frequently for occasional sewing.

Pliers - When you absolutely have to finish something that is six layers thick, grab the pliers. Needles the size of a nail are pretty difficult to push and pull through fabric with sore fingers.

Dust cover - The most important tool in your arsenal is a sewing machine cover. Homemade or one of the plastic ones you can buy at any fabric or hobby store, cover that machine. Dust is your worst enemy.

Sewing machine oil - Your sewing machine is just that, a machine. Machines need maintenance. Metals need lubricating. If you use your machine often, oiling once a week is good. Not so often, you can get away with once every month or so. If you don't have your manual handy to tell you wear to oil, just use common sense and look for places where gears move, joints may stick, and metal touches metal. Don't over oil, though. Just a drop or two in each spot is enough. Once you oil, run your machine at top speed for a minute, and then sew over scrap fabric to be sure all residue is gone before using it.

Machine needles - Change needles often! Why? They get dull, or damaged. Most professionals say to change them with every item you sew, but if all you sew are small crafts, that can be on the ridiculous side. Again, common sense. If you sew a lot, change it out every few days. Pay attention to your size, as well. The larger the needle, the heavier the fabric you sew. Small needles are for sheer fabrics. Large needles are for things like denim. More information on the basics of sewing needles is here.

Magnets - For finding those lost pins. The stronger, the better.